Van Cleef And Arpels History: Craftsmanship & Innovation

Few names are as well known as Van Cleef & Arpels. The French luxury house, with its iconic blend of artistry, innovation, and high level of craftsmanship, has defined what it means to create not just jewellery, but masterpieces. Van Cleef and Arpels’ history from royalty to Hollywood stars, and collectors to connoisseurs has given the world's elite some of the most beautiful and symbolic pieces ever crafted. But how did Van Cleef come to be? What is Van Cleef’s family history? Let’s take a closer look at the brand’s fascinating history and its ongoing legacy.

The Beginning: A Marriage of Love and Business

The history of Van Cleef & Arpels was born out of both love and entrepreneurial vision—a unique foundation for a business that has come to symbolise love, romance, and eternal beauty. It started in 1895 with the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. Alfred was a skilled diamond cutter, the son of a stonecutter, while Estelle was the daughter of a precious stone dealer. Together, they combined their expertise and family traditions to establish a family jewellery business rooted in exceptional craftsmanship and a profound understanding of gemstones. In 1906, they opened their first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris. This address would go on to become one of the most iconic in the world of luxury, housing some of the finest jewellery ever created. The boutique’s location in Place Vendôme was not by accident. It was strategically placed in the heart of Paris’s high-society district, surrounded by aristocrats, affluent travellers, and art aficionados.

Alfred and Estelle’s partnership marked the beginning of Van Cleef and Arpels’ legacy, but it developed with the help of others. Over time, Estelle’s brothers Charles, Julien, and Louis Arpels joined the company, helping to expand and strengthen the business. This unity, rooted in family, became one of the core values of Van Cleef & Arpels, a tradition that still resonates today.

Innovation from the Start: The Mystery Set

Van Cleef and Arpels history is not just known for its beauty and design; it has also been a pioneer in technical innovation. One of the most significant breakthroughs in the company’s history is the invention of the "Mystery Set" technique in 1933. The Mystery Set allows gemstones to be set in such a way that no visible metal prongs are present, creating an almost seamless surface of pure colour and brilliance. This technique is incredibly complex and can only be executed by the most skilled jewellers and it can take up to 8 hours to cut each individual stone. The Mystery Set is still used today, particularly in their intricate brooches and high jewellery collections. This technique demonstrates Van Cleef & Arpels’ ability to marry innovation with tradition, setting it apart from other luxury jewellery houses.

Iconic Designs: The Alhambra and the Zip Necklace

If there’s one symbol that has become synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels, it’s the Alhambra motif. So, what is the Van Cleef Alhambra history? The Van Cleef bracelet’s history began in 1968. The Alhambra collection features a four-leaf clover design, often set with mother-of-pearl, onyx, malachite, or turquoise. This design is said to bring luck to those who wear it, and its timeless simplicity has made it one of the most popular and enduring motifs in the brand’s history. The Alhambra collection, with its combination of elegance and everyday wearability, marked a new era for Van Cleef & Arpels, helping the brand appeal to a younger, more casual clientele without sacrificing its luxury essence.

Another iconic creation is the Van Cleef Zip Necklace, first commissioned in the 1930s by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. Inspired by the zipper, a relatively new invention at the time, this necklace can be unzipped and worn as a bracelet. It is a perfect example of the house's creativity and willingness to push the boundaries of what jewellery can be, merging the worlds of fashion and high jewellery.

The Power of Collaboration: A Broader Artistic Vision

Throughout Van Cleef and Arpels’ history, Van Cleef has collaborated with artists and designers from various sectors, expanding its artistic vision beyond jewellery alone. One notable collaboration was with the ballet world, particularly with choreographer George Balanchine. In 1967, Balanchine created a ballet called Jewels, inspired by the colours and shapes of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces. The ballet’s three acts—Emeralds, Rubies, and Diamonds—reflected the elegance and emotional depth of the precious stones, creating a direct connection between movement, art, and jewellery. This collaboration is one of many instances where Van Cleef & Arpels has worked to bring different forms of art together. Whether through collaborations with fashion designers, architects, or even perfumers (the brand launched its first fragrance in 1976), Van Cleef & Arpels continually demonstrates a dedication to pushing artistic boundaries.

Van Cleef & Royalty - Who Wears Van Cleef & Arpels?

From the very beginning, Van Cleef & Arpels has been a favourite among royalty and the elite. One of its most famous clients was Princess Grace of Monaco, who was known for her impeccable style and love for elegant jewellery. Her 1956 wedding to Prince Rainier III was a media sensation, and she wore many pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, including a custom tiara for her royal wedding. In fact, the jeweller was appointed as the "Official Supplier to the Principality of Monaco" shortly after her wedding. This partnership helped cement the brand’s image as a symbol of royal luxury and refined elegance. More recently many other Royal Family Members have been seen wearing Van Cleef. Kate Middleton often wears her Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra earrings and necklace. 

But Van Cleef & Arpels isn’t limited to royalty. Van Cleef is also a celebrity status jewellery house. It has captured the hearts of Hollywood stars and fashion icons. Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich all wore the house's creations, both on and off the screen. More recently, stars like Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett, and Margot Robbie have graced red carpets around the world, sparkling in the brand’s latest collections.

The Poetry of Time: Watches by Van Cleef & Arpels

While primarily known for its jewellery, Van Cleef & Arpels has also made significant contributions to the world of watchmaking. The house’s approach to watches is distinctly different from many traditional horologists. Instead of focusing on the technicalities of precision, Van Cleef & Arpels watches emphasise storytelling, beauty, and artistry—an approach they call "The Poetry of Time."

One of the most famous examples is the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch, which is priced at £130,000 and depicts two lovers meeting on a bridge. As the hours and minutes pass, the figures move closer to one another, finally meeting at midnight for a kiss. This watch, like many others by Van Cleef & Arpels, is not just about telling time; it is about capturing emotion, romance, and a moment in time.

Commitment to Craftsmanship: L'École des Arts Joailliers

In keeping with their commitment to artistry, Van Cleef & Arpels has also taken significant steps to preserve and share the knowledge of jewellery-making. In 2012, the brand opened L'École des Arts Joailliers, a school dedicated to the study and appreciation of jewellery arts. Located in Paris, the school offers courses to the public, covering everything from gemology to the history of jewellery and the technical aspects of craftsmanship.

The school aims to help people understand the world of high jewellery and give a deeper appreciation for the artistry and skill that go into each piece. It's a reflection of the house's broader philosophy representing that luxury isn't just about owning something beautiful—it's about understanding the story, craftsmanship, and care that goes into creating it.

Van Cleef History - A Legacy That Continues

Over more than a century, Van Cleef & Arpels has continually evolved while staying true to its core values of craftsmanship, innovation, and artistry. Whether through technical innovations like the Mystery Set, iconic designs like the Alhambra, or collaborations with artists from various disciplines, the brand has always been at the forefront of creative expression. Through its commitment to education and preserving the jewellery arts, Van Cleef & Arpels ensures that its legacy will stay for generations to come. Van Cleef also constantly adapts their designs overtime. An example is the recent Van Cleef packaging change creating a new and updated look. 

Why Buy Pre-owned Van Cleef?

Buying pre-owned Van Cleef & Arpels is not just a smart financial decision, it’s an opportunity to own a piece of history. Many vintage or second-hand pieces carry the charm of past eras, featuring designs or stones that may no longer be in production. Plus, pre-owned jewellery often comes at a more accessible price point, allowing collectors and first-time buyers to experience the brand's iconic craftsmanship and artistry without paying the premium of a brand-new item. What’s more, each pre-loved piece has a story of its own, adding a layer of uniqueness and depth to your collection. Whether you're seeking a timeless Alhambra necklace or a rare, limited-edition design, opting for pre-owned ensures you're making an eco-friendly choice while indulging in a bit of luxury from one of the world’s most renowned jewellery houses.

Pre-owned Van Cleef & Arpels At S&R Jewellers - Van Cleef UK

Shop pre-owned Van Cleef and Arpels jewellery with us today. From beautiful Van Cleef Alhambra earrings to stunning Alhambra necklaces and Van Cleef & Arpels rings and bracelets, we routinely acquire second-hand Van Cleef jewellery. Get in touch to register your interest. 

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