Since the start of production in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has captivated divers, adventurers, collectors, and enthusiasts alike. From its robust build and water resistance to its timeless design and rich history, the Submariner is much more than just a tool watch; it is now a statement, a legacy, and an investment. Initially created for professional divers, the watch quickly changed its purpose, evolving into a symbol of luxury and success. With a competitive price compared to other high-end watches and an impressive ability to retain value, the Submariner is both a fantastic timepiece to wear and can be a great investment watch. In this Rolex Submariner Buying guide, we’ll walk you through why to buy a Rolex Submariner and why this Rolex underwater watch is one of the best Rolex watches. 

Rolex Submariner History - Where It Started

The Rolex Submariner made its grand debut to the public at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954 (now named Baselworld). While it wasn't the first dive watch ever created (Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and Omega’s Marine hold earlier claims), the Submariner set new benchmarks for durability and performance. More than just a water-resistant watch, it was engineered for adventure, exploration, and style.

Rolex’s journey into the world of diving watches began with René-Paul Jeanneret, Rolex’s Public Relations Director and an avid diver. His partnership with underwater filmmaker Jacques Cousteau and the help of his underwater submersible allowed Rolex to develop a robust timepiece that could withstand the pressures of the deep ocean. Enter the Submariner ref. 6204, the first Rolex to have water resistance up to 100 meters, luminous hands, and a rotating bezel for timing dives.

Since then, the Submariner has undergone numerous refinements and improvements, from enhancing water resistance to 300 meters to featuring the automatic Perpetual movement, the heart of modern Rolex models. Over the decades, its reputation has grown not only as the premier dive watch but as a status symbol seen on the wrists of celebrities, athletes, and, of course, the world’s most famous secret agent: James Bond.

Jacques Cousteau's submersible
Jacques Cousteau's Submersible used For Underwater Research

The Most Notable Rolex Submariner Models

Over the years, Rolex has produced various Submariner models, each with its own unique traits and story. Whether you’re considering buying a Rolex, want a specific vintage Rolex Submariner watch or a more modern variant, here’s a look at some key models to consider.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610

The ref. 16610, produced from 1989 to 2010, is one of the most recognisable and sought-after Submariner models. It features a classic Rolex Submariner black dial and bezel, is made of Oystersteel, and boasts a 300-meter water resistance. The black Rolex Submariner also comes equipped with the date function, which many wearers appreciate for everyday use. This version of the Submariner represents the perfect blend of old-school charm and modern reliability.

Rolex Submariner ‘Kermit’

Released in 2003 to commemorate the Submariner's 50th anniversary, the green Rolex Submariner, known as the "Kermit," features a striking green bezel that distinguishes it from traditional black models. Its limited production and distinctive aesthetic have made it a collector's favourite.

Rolex Submariner ‘No-Date’

For purists who appreciate simplicity, the ref. 114060 "No-Date" is a nod to the original Submariner design. It features the same rugged build and water resistance but lacks the date complication, making it a true dive watch in the traditional sense.

Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’

The Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’ is another green Rolex Submariner and was introduced in 2010, quickly becoming one of the most iconic modern Submariners. It features an eye-catching green dial and a matching green Cerachrom bezel. This model offers all the classic elements of the Submariner, including 300-meter water resistance and a date complication, but with a striking, contemporary twist. 

What Makes The Submariner Different To Other Rolex Watches?

Many features of Rolex watches are very similar, however the Submariner has some features that stand out. The Rolex Submariner watch’s water resistance is unlike the rest. With an outstanding 300m of water resistance, the Submariner beats all the other Rolex watches for most capable diving watch. The Rolex Submariner also has a large watch dial of 41mm which is the largest Rolex offers. Other Rolex watches either have smaller dials or multiple size options to choose from causing the Submariner watch to have a bold style. 


Rolex Submariner

Rolex Datejust

Rolex Daytona

Rolex GMT-Master II

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Movement

Automatic, Caliber 3235

Automatic, Caliber 3235

Automatic, Caliber 4130

Automatic, Caliber 3285

Automatic, Caliber 3230

Water Resistance

300 meters (1,000 feet)

100 meters (330 feet)

100 meters (330 feet)

100 meters (330 feet)

100 meters (330 feet)

Case Size

41 mm

31, 36, or 41 mm

40 mm

40 mm

28, 31, 34, 36, or 41 mm

Material Options

Oystersteel, Yellow/White Gold

Oystersteel, Everose Gold, Two-tone

Oystersteel, Yellow/White Gold

Oystersteel, Everose Gold, Two-tone

Oystersteel

Functions

Time, Date, Unidirectional Bezel

Time, Date

Time, Chronograph

Time, Date, Dual Time Zone

Time

Bezel

Unidirectional (Cerachrom)

Fluted or Smooth

Fixed (Tachymeter scale)

Bidirectional (Cerachrom)

Smooth

Bracelet

Oyster

Oyster, Jubilee

Oyster

Oyster, Jubilee

Oyster


Who Wears A Rolex Submariner?

The Rolex Submariner has become a favourite among celebrities, athletes, and style icons alike. One of the most famous wearers is Keanu Reeves, who wears the Submariner both on and off-screen. In John Wick, the watch perfectly suits his character’s tough, minimalist style, reflecting durability and understated sophistication. Of course, James Bond also famously wore the Submariner throughout several 007 films, solidifying its status as the ultimate action hero watch. From Sean Connery to Roger Moore, the Submariner became a symbol of elegance and toughness. Beyond Hollywood, the Submariner is a go-to choice for notable figures like Mark Wahlberg, who has an impressive collection of Rolex watches, including multiple Submariner models. The watch’s combination of luxury and reliability has made it a statement piece across industries. Father and son David Beckham and Brooklyn Beckham also regularly wear Rolex watches proving these underwater watches have a multi-generational appeal. 

“I really like vintage Rolexes, like the old submariners” - Brooklyn Beckham

 

black rolex submariner and rolex submariner hulk
Classic Black Rolex Submariner & Rolex Submariner 'Hulk'

Is the Rolex Submariner a Good Investment?

Without a doubt, the Rolex Submariner watch is one of the safest investments in the luxury watch market. Its value has remained steady and, in some cases, increased over time. For instance, the 'Kermit' has significantly appreciated since its release, and other rare models, such as the vintage 5512 and 5513 Submariners, continue to command high prices at auction.

The pre-owned market is also extremely strong for the Submariner watch. When purchasing a pre-owned Rolex Submariner men’s watch, you have the opportunity to buy at a more favourable price while potentially seeing an increase in value over time, especially for limited-edition or discontinued Rolex watches.

Real vs fake Rolex Submariner - How to Spot a Fake Rolex 

Given the immense popularity and high price of the Rolex Submariner, counterfeit versions are unfortunately quite common. If you’re buying second-hand, make sure you are dealing with a reputable seller. Here are a few key tips to help you spot a fake Rolex Submariner:

  • Check the weight: A real Submariner will feel substantial due to its high-quality materials.
  • Look at the magnification: The date on a genuine Submariner is magnified by a "cyclops" lens to 2.5 times its original size.
  • Examine the second hand: A real Rolex Submariner will have a smooth, sweeping second hand, not one that ticks.

At S&R Jewellers, we guarantee the authenticity of every pre-owned watch in our collection, allowing you to buy with complete confidence. The majority of our watches have the original Rolex watch box and Rolex warranty card. Although some original paperwork may have been lost over time, we still guarantee that each one is a genuine Rolex watch. 

rolex submariner watches
Rolex Submariner Watches

Why Buy Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Watches?

Why should you buy an old Rolex Submariner? The Rolex Submariner goes beyond its iconic design and superior craftsmanship. One of the key reasons people invest in a Rolex Submariner is its ability to hold and even appreciate in value. Rolex adheres to strict production schedules, limiting the number of models made each year, which keeps demand high and supply relatively scarce. As a result, buying pre-owned can often be the most accessible route to owning this luxury watch as you can avoid the Rolex Submariner waiting list and not have to pay the full cost of a new Rolex Submariner

Pre-Owned Watch Advantages

  • Cost Efficiency: A pre-owned Submariner often comes at a significantly lower price at around 30% off the retail price with us while still retaining its value remarkably well over time. A second-hand Rolex can cost around £7,000 - £8,000, whereas a new Rolex Submariner starts from around £10,000 and can go up to £40,000.
  • Access to Rare Models: Some models of the Submariner, especially those with limited production runs or discontinued references like the 16610LV ‘Kermit’ or the ‘No-Date’ 114060, are only available in the pre-owned market.
  • Proven Track Record: Buying a used Rolex Submariner is a safe bet in the luxury market, given its consistent resale value and global demand.

As second-hand luxury watch specialists, we specialise in offering a wide range of pre-owned Rolex models. 

So, Why Buy A Rolex Submariner?

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of luxury watches, the Rolex Submariner is a timeless investment that transcends trends. It’s a watch that effortlessly combines functionality, durability, and luxury in one iconic package. Each Rolex watch offers something different. It is a personal preference when deciding on Rolex Submariner Vs Rolex Daytona or Rolex Sea-dweller Vs Rolex Submariner

Opting for a second-hand Rolex Submariner offers a fantastic way to get your hands on a sought-after model without paying the premium for brand-new. Plus, as a pre-owned luxury watch seller, we at Suttons & Robertsons pride ourselves on offering a curated selection of authentic Rolex Submariners and other iconic timepieces.

Pre-owned Rolex Watches At S&R Jewellers
Pre-owned Rolex Watches At S&R Jewellers

Buy A Pre-owned Rolex Submariner UK At S&R Jewellers

Browse our selection of Rolex watches. From the Rolex Datejust to the Rolex classic Submariner, we have a range of second-hand Rolex watches including modern references to vintage Rolex Submariner watches.

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